Oh, Nepal... A Long Update

Since my last post, I finished my volunteer project in a village in southern Nepal, took a trip to Lumbini (Buddha's birthplace), and returned to Kathmandu for the Shiva Ratri festival.  I've kept some notes about what I've been doing, so here they are:


- February 16 -

It's been raining for two days, and it's showing no sign of stopping.  In England it rained nonstop, but it was nothing like this.  England's rain was a constant gray drizzle just to remind you to be grumpy, but rain here is exciting - like being in the heart of an electrified waterfall.  The lightning is so close that it illuminates the entire house, and the thunder sounds like it's rolling down the streets.  I'm not afraid of storms, but these blasts of thunder and lightning are enough to shake anyone. 

Every now and then, there's a break in the storm and the sky clears enough so that you can see huge mountains in the distance.  At these moments, I rediscover why I came to Nepal in the first place.  This trip will definitely be a personal journey like no other, and it's funny to think that the initial motivation for going to any of these places was the opportunity to walk around in some mountains.  I feel really lucky that I love hiking and climbing so much.  Some people never find anything that makes them feel the way that I do when I see a snow-capped mountain.  Just a small glimpse of the Himalaya as the storm pauses is enough to fill me with happiness and send me, smiling, into a school of screaming children.  Oh, Nepal.

The most noticable result of the storm is not the flooded dirt roads, the colder weather, or the clearer air - it is the electricity.  Nepal does load sharing: Since the electricity demand is more than can be supplied by the grid, only part of the town can have electricity at a given time.  However, since electicity is generated by hydropower and the rain fills up the rivers, there is a currently a lot of electricity.  At our home, we usually have a few hours (if any) of electricity per day.  However, today we have had electricity for 12 hours straight.  The best part about this is that the little boy in our family (Sulav) has been watching TV all day instead of going through my things and telling me what to do.

Here are a few pictures of my host family:

 This is my host mother, Sushila, making roti for dinner.  It was a special dinner for my last day in Chitwan.

This is my final dinner in Chitwan - roti with rice pudding and curry.  I really loved Sushila's cooking.  The food at restaurants definitely isn't as good.

This is the family - Sushila (mother), Lila (father), and Sulav (son).  There's also a new volunteer who arrived just as I was leaving.  Her name is Saija, and she is from Finland.  She's a nurse volunteering at the hospital.  She says that the hospitals are sort of like 18th century prisons, but maybe she's exaggerating...

This is me with the family out on the roof deck.  You can see some mountains in the distance.  On clear days, you can see the Himalaya very nicely.











- February 17 -

The US is a place for individuals, and Nepal is a place for groups.  I like my alone time, but people in Nepal hate to be alone.  I've been incorporated into the social network here, and I've accepted that it's a losing battle to hope for any alone time.

It's getting close to the end of my time at the school, so every woman has been inviting me to spend one last time at their home.  I spent tonight at Niru's house with her son, husband, two daughters, two nieces, another teacher from the school (Songu) and her daughter, and another teacher from the school (Denu) and her two daughters.  We spent the night talking about everything (politics, pop culture, Nepal, love, friendship, family, etcetc), dancing, singing, drawing, cooking, and eating.  At the end of the night, the huge group of women walked me back to my house, which was a fun adventure all in itself.  This is Nepal - nothing is done alone.  The thing that I liked most about this night was that there were so many women of different ages, but we were all hanging out and having a good time as friends.  It seems like there is nothing that we can't share and no reason for us not to include everyone, no matter how old or young (or white) they are.  Nights like this are so beautiful. 


- February 18 -


I'm spending every night like this - eating and talking with beautiful people who keep reminding me never to forget them.  Tonight, I was at Denu's house.  We played games, looked at her wedding photos, and ate lots of great food.  As far as I could understand, Nepali weddings go something like this:  The man goes through a big show of going out to the woman's house and tearing her away from her parents.  The woman hides under a beautiful red scarf and cries during the whole wedding, because she's sad to leave her parents.  The man eats food and dances with his friends.  In the mean time, little things like washing the man's feet and throwing coins at eachother happen.  I don't quite understand all the details, but it seems like a lot of fun, even if you are supposed to cry the whole time.

These nights are fun because all people just flow freely from one house to the other, so it feels like a huge family of neighbors who love being together.  I feel like Nepal is full of communal children - they just show up at your house and you love them as if they were your own.  At one point, there were probably more than 10 people at Denu's house, just hanging out and chatting.

Before I left Denu's house, she gave me a beautiful orange sari, because she says that my body is a perfect shape to be wrapped up in silk.  That's one strange thing about Nepal:  Everyone keeps telling me how beautiful I am.  I know that I am not an especially beautiful person, but people here go on and on about how every one of my features is absolutely perfect and about how I'm extremely clever and have the best personality you could ask for.  Some people even compare me to other volunteers and say that it's so nice that I am not like them.  I think the reason for this is that Nepali people treat their guests like gods and want to make sure they feel as important as possible.  It definitely works, and I feel great.


- February 19 -

Even one week ago, I was lost and confused, telling myself that I could never understand Nepal or its people.  Recently, I feel happy and at home.  I spend lots of time with Mina, at her home and at school.  We chatter nonstop about everything going on in our lives (until the principal walks in and we have to start working very hard).  On other days, I visit other teachers and share their families, since I haven't brought my own family to Nepal.  I always feel welcomed, and their love for me is showing me how important it is to love and welcome others who might feel lost or confused when they are near my home.  We are all human, after all, and everyone just wants to feel safe and included.  And that's just how I feel: My friends here are making me a real part of their lives and keeping me close enough to protect me from both danger and loneliness.  Just as they keep reminding me to do, I will remember them forever and make plans for the day when I can come back.

This is me and Mina at the office.














- February 20 -

Nepal is wonderful, but it still breaks my heart.  Like Nepali people say:  God has given Nepal the most beautiful things in the world - mountains, rivers, animals, jungle, and so much more.  But, there is garbage on top of all of it.  Also, Nepali people are the best in the world: friendly, welcoming, hospitable, and good spirited.  But, the women can't earn money and are dominated and trapped by men.  I desperately want to help these women, but I don't know how.  In the US, different races ban together and fight for their rights, but I've never been part of any group like this.  Even though I don't have to suffer through being beaten by my husband or having to ask him every time I want to buy something or go somewhere, I still feel close to these women and feel like their struggles are my own.  I wish that there was something I could do, but this social system is so intricate and delicately balanced that it seems so impossible.  To top it off, all volunteer organizations are just machines to make money and have no interest in helping people.  Oh, Nepal.


- February 21 - 


And speaking of wishing... Sometimes, I really wish I was a better teacher.  I don't understand what I'm doing wrong.  Some days, the kids only talk a little bit and seem somewhat interested in the lesson.  These are good days.  Other days, the kids scream so loud that I can't even hear myself think and I become so lost that I don't know what to do.  The problem is that they've realized that I won't hit them, so they aren't afraid of me.  Other teachers have order in the classroom because they hit the students when they act out.  I'm often tempted to just give up, but the way that the kids act outside of class makes it obvious that they value my being here, even if they don't listen to the lesson.

Here are some pictures of the kids I love (who unfortunately don't listen during class):

These are the boys who talk the most.  They drive me crazy, but are very funny and like to sing/dance to Justin Biber.

This is the seventh grade.  They are great, in a loud and obnoxious way.  They are the class that I started teaching first, so I naturally became more attached to them.

These are the seventh graders outside in the courtyard.












- February 23 - 

Today, I've been silently laughing to myself all day.  We went on a school field trip.  First we stopped at the Coca Cola factory, and that's where the normal-ness ended.  Next, we stopped at a brewery -- like, we took a bunch of 5 year olds to a brewery.  Even better -- no one in Nepal drinks alcohol, and somehow there's a huge brewery.  And then... Imagine a big school bus full of screaming kids hanging out the windows and doors.  Imagine that bus off-roading through the jungle.  The bus stops and kids run in all directions.  Ten minutes later, we're all back on the bus with kids screaming in unison as we plow through the jungle. 

After school, I went to my friend Rupa's house and had tea.  First, she asks if I would like tea.  Then, she goes outside, milks the goat, picks some spices, and makes me tea.  Her sister-in-law laughs and dances and talks to me assuming that I know what she's saying.  There's a long fight about whether or not I understand her, and the only thing I do understand is something like "Of course she understands Nepali!  She's my sister!"  A few more women come by, we laugh and talk, and kids recite the poems that I taught in class last week.  Then, they put about a million bangles on each of my arms, give me a tikka, and send me home.  Is Nepal hilarious, or am I just imagining how funny this is? 


- February 25 -


Today was my last day of school, and it was exhausting.  Instead of writing, I'll just put some pictures.

 Early in the morning, I went to Mina's house and she helped me wrap my sari.

These are the sixth graders.  The girl in the front wearing green is Indu - she's one of my favorites.

The seventh graders made a program for me.  The decorated the room, sang, danced, read poems, and gave me a gift.

The girls...

 "Dana's Last Day in this Class"

Some crazy children... Do you understand why teaching was hard?  Haha.

The seventh class

The kids were pulling me everywhere for pictures and games, but the adults weren't any different!  I'm happy that they were so eager, though because that means that I have lots of good pictures of everyone.  This is Bimala, the woman who invited me to her house the first day that I was here.

This is me with Niru, Songu, and Usha.

I even took pictures with their kids.  This is Songu's son.  It's also the best picture I have of me in my sari.  Isn't it beautiful?  I plan to wear such things to any formal events from now on.  Instead of going out and buying an expensive dress, I'll just wrap myself in 6 meters of silky fabric..








- February 26 -

I'm not ready to go back to Kathmandu.  Imagine sitting on a bus and watching the scenery change from jungle to mountains of garbage... no thanks.  Instead, I went to Lumbini - Buddha's birthplace.  It took 6-ish hours and two bus changes to get here.  I'm really surprised and impressed with how calm I felt through all of the travel-drama.  I spent the first four hours holding both my big backpack and someone's baby while we drove like maniacs on curvy mountain roads and listened to loud indian/arabic sounding music.  Finally, the bus stopped.  To my surprise, we were not in the town that the bus was supposed to end up at.  I got on a smaller bus and continued to that town (Bhairawa).  Once there, I found a bus to Lumbini.  Honestly, at the time, I really wasn't too sure if the bus was actually going to Lumbini, but I'm psyched that it ended up here.  Traveling here is sort of a gambel.  The drive was really pleasant because we were on a dirt road lined with mango and banana trees and surrounded by farms.  Once I got here, I felt like I should be exhausted from 6 hours of travel, but I felt surprisingly happy and energetic.  I really like the atmosphere of Lumbini - it's a very relaxed place.

After finding a hotel, I went on a walk.  Lumbini has tons of monasteries built by many different countries, and I somehow ended up at the Thai monastery.  I went in and looked around - it was beautiful.  I had a nice talk with some of the men there who just assumed that I was Nepali - they thought it was so strange that a Nepali woman would be out by herself.  Hah.

Later, I went out to dinner by myself - this is the life of a lonely traveler.  There was another guy having dinner by himself, and we somehow started talking.  His name is Jeff, and we're spending tomorrow together touring the town.


- February 27 -

Jeff and I rented bicycles and rode around the monasteries of Lumbini.  Lumbini is less developed than I thought it would be.  There are tons of monasteries built by many different countries, but most of them are still under construction.  Here are a few pictures from Lumbini, just to give a taste of what it's like.  I have about a million pictures...

Of course, the first picture must be one of me and Buddha.  We're like best friends now.

This was my favorite monastery - one of the Thai ones.  There are two types of Buddhism: Theravada and Mahayana.  Theravada happens in southeast Asia.  It is more traditional and has more boring looking monasteries, like this one.  Mahayana is more exciting with beautiful monasteries and has some ridiculous teachings that don't necessarily come from the Buddha's teachings.  Mahayana happens in places around here (like India, Nepal, Tibet, China, etc).  

This is Jeff!  He was a great travel buddy for the few days that I was in Lumbini.  Meeting him was like an intro to how I should make friends while traveling by myself.  He's a great guy, and he lives in LA, so I will hopefully be able to visit when I'm in grad school on the west coast.

This was a Tibetan monastery from the Mahayana type of Buddhism.  It's hard to describe just how beautiful this place is.

This is one of the prayer wheels at the Tibetan monastery.  You have to walk around the monastery clockwise, and turn the wheels.

Still the Tibetan monastery.  They had statues all around the monastery telling a story of the Buddha's enlightenment.  It goes from when he was a young prince, to when he left his wife and child to learn to meditate, and then to when he became enlightened and started to teach, and then finally to when he died his final death.

This is inside the Tibetan monastery.  The monks sit at those red desk-things and chant and play instruments.  

This is a small part of the mural on the back of the monastery.  I think that this is the most beautiful painting I've ever seen.  It goes from jungle to village to Himalaya - how wonderful! 

This is the Chinese monastery - Jeff's favorite.

 This is monks talking at the Maya Devi temple, where Buddha was born.

This pillar marks the exact spot where Buddha was born.

- March 2 -

After a few days of travel, I made it back to Kathmandu in time to meet up with the other volunteers for Shiva Ratri.  Shiva is the main Hindu god, and this is the festival for his birthday.  Shiva is famous for smoking a lot of marijuana, so for this festival, everyone gets very high and goes to the Pashupatinath temple.  A bunch of Indian "babas" also come.  Babas, or holy men, are basically beggars who sit around mostly or totally naked and painted in ridiculous colors.  I'm told that there's also something inside the temple (where non-Hindu people aren't allowed to go) where women bow down to the holy man's penis and put rings around it.  This sounds ridiculous and untrue, but lots of Nepali people told us that happens... I don't know if I believe it.

I can't tell if this is Shiva or Buddha... He's sitting Buddha style with Buddhist flags, but he's a lovely blue Shiva color.  I'm not as good at this Nepal thing as one might think...

 This is our group of volunteers who came to the festival together.  We found eachother kind of randomly and kind of on purpose earlier today. 

So, as we were sitting here, something ridiculous happened.  People started stopping just to look at us.  More and more people go interested, and eventually, there were hundreds of Nepali people crowding around us and even climbing to higher ground so that they could get a look at us.  Like, hundreds.  I don't know why we were such an interesting attraction.  People were pushing eachother out of the way and crowding closer and closer, and there was nothing we could do about it.  I took videos of them, but unfortunately no pictures.  At first, they just stood there and stared.  Then, they started taking pictures - with a camera about 1 inch from your face.  Then, they started talking to us.  One man started giving a speech about "Nepal Tourism Year 2011" and how we are uniting our cultures.  How nice.  Eventually, it ended up in us all cheering together for absolutely no reason.  "YAY SHIVA!  YAY NEPAL!  DHERAI RAAMRO CHHA!  I LIKE RICE!"  Oh, Nepal.

This across the river, looking back at where we were sitting.  This is the holy river (Bagmati) at the Pashupatinath temple.  Look at all the high people!  I fount it to be such a funny festival.  In most places, people drink a lot of alcohol and get obnoxious.  Here, they smoke marijuana and lazily mull around.  That is, until they find some white people to look at...

Here's where we crossed the river to get to the steps where everyone was sitting.

The crowds!

The road to the temple is lined with crazy lights!  This is one of them - the lights were swirling and much more beautiful than this picture suggests.  Apparently, power cuts can be dealt with quite efficiently when something like Shiva's birthday comes around...

This is all of us having a birthday dinner for Shiva.

The next day, we went to the library.  What a silly and wonderfully relaxing library.  This place really made my day.

There were stuffed animals, paintings, statues, medieval armor, and other silly and beautiful things everywhere.  This place is exactly like what you'd like an old library to look like. 

Important-looking stairs... We went upstairs to the children's section and read "I Spy" and "Dante's Inferno" for a long time.  Nepal makes me laugh.  What a silly life I'm living.

















Now, this is what I'm doing: I'm going up to the Pharping Monastery to hang out with Santiago and Maria while I figure out my trekking plans.  Hopefully, I will soon have a trekking partner and be off for a month of trekking in the Annapurnas!

Right now, I feel like my culture shock stage of being in Nepal is finished.  I feel comfortable and I'm enjoying the silly things about this place.  I'm loving the freedom I have in this wandering life, and I'm getting more and more excited to continue my trip.  I feel so lucky to be here and so happy that I didn't give up and go home.  I feel like this trip is exactly what I needed to open my mind and become a better person.